To revist this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. November 23, 2022 Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images Alessandro Michele, who defined an era of menswear at the helm of Gucci, is out. Kara Young reflects on the politics of performance. 2022 CBS Interactive Inc. All Rights Reserved. Today theyd all be into street style., Michele studied at Romes Accademia di Costume e di Modahe initially hoped to become a costume designerwhere he was inspired by visits from the legendary Piero Tosi, who created the costumes, along with the hair and makeup designs, for such image-conscious auteurs as Visconti, Pasolini, and Fellini. In order to re-accelerate, it needs to open a new creative chapter, he said. You can unsubscribe at any time. We are really such different people, he says. Its when I understood what a big company it was, says Michele, who now counts some 70 designers on his staff. Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community. Alessandro Michele, the eccentric creative director of the House of Gucci sat atop the world of high fashion in Rome. Lately, however, the once unstoppable growth had started to slow. From 2015 to 2019, Guccis revenues roughly tripled and profits quadrupled during a period of rapid expansion the likes of which had never been seen in the modern luxury sector with quarterly growth rates at times approaching 50 percent. The creative often credited with pioneering luxury streetwear has stepped away from design duties at the brand he founded. Industry bible Womens Wear Daily (WWD) earlier on Wednesday said Michele was quitting after being asked to orchestrate a creative revamp to restore the brands lustre. Gallery: Alessandro Michele is leaving Gucci, Kering in talks to acquire Tom Ford, says, Gallery: Alessandro Michele's Gucci moments, Enter your email to receive editorial updates, special offers and breaking news alerts from. My apartment is full of antique pieces, but I put everything together like a modern installation.. In recent seasons, Micheles designs for Gucci have included more understated, elevated fare: less streetwear and more tailoring or embroidered knits, and classic handbags that deployed one or two key brand signatures like horse-bits and red-green stripes rather than layering them with decorative elements like painted flowers, moth-shaped charms or cartoon characters. I still love to work with my hands, he says, admitting that now he picks up new stitches on YouTube and, when in London, makes pilgrimages to Liberty, the fabled department store, to buy needlepoint kits. His first hit walked his debut womens runway for autumn/winter 2015. You have everything therepresent, past, future, exhibitions, theater. 2023 Hypebeast Limited. WWD has recently reported that "well-placed sources" have indicated that creative director Alessandro Michele is slated to exit the Italian luxury brand and that the brand is expected to. Our offices are for administrative purposes only, no visitors will be accepted without an appointment. I dont like a fashion show where you have only two printsit drives me crazy, he says, gesturing to a wall smothered in the prints he is using in the show. The second, possibly preferable, option would be to try and repeat the trick Bizzarri pulled off by appointing Michele, a then complete unknown, to the top job. Anderson Lee Aldrich, 23, has been sentenced to five consecutive life sentences without the possibility of parole. And Im having a lot of fun., 2023 Cond Nast. The first time was in 2004, when he parted ways with Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole and the second, in 2014, when he fired the designer Frida Giannini and the chief executive, Patrizio di Marco. Should I Stop Waxing and Switch to Laser Hair Removal? Sales also got a boost from 2021s Ridley Scott-directed House of Gucci film with Lady Gaga and a host of Hollywood A-listers. Now, an update on a story we reported one year ago. Mr. Michele and Harry Styles at the Met Gala in May 2019. Gucci x Sethu: SA model stars in top fashion houses new campaign [watch], Custom or counterfeit? To them goes my most sincerest wish: may you continue to cultivate your dreams, the subtle and intangible matter that makes life worth living. Dorothy Circus Gallery London Presents "Let This Be a Sign" by Samson Bakare, Homage Year Releases Collaboration With the Estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat and Black Fashion Fair, UGG and Designer Shayne Oliver Join Forces for FW22 Campaign, Tampax Under Fire For "Sexualizing" Tweet And They Do Not Care, Maddie Zieglers Retro '60s Beehive Bob Proves Shes All Grown Up, November Sagittarius New Moon: A Tarot Reading for Your Zodiac Sign. Left: Michele encouraged Jared Leto to wear the bejeweled gown and head: "You will be like a Shakespearean character," he said. Gucci's design studio will "continue to carry the direction of the House forward" until a new creative configuration is announced, the Kering-owned brand said in a statement. Still, the evolution within Guccis collections has struggled to catch consumers attention, perhaps drowned out by the designers ultra-consistent, funky topline message, which is still being reinforced by over-the-top styling on runways (headscarves and eyeglass chains abound) and a campy, Old Hollywood vibe on the red carpet. Gucci's former creative director Alessandro Michele, left, with Jared Leto at the Met Gala 2022. Though its neoclassical facade was refaced in gleaming pale travertine in the nineteenth century, it was originally built in the early sixteenth century under the direction of Raphael. I was fortunate to have had the opportunity to meet Alessandro at the end of 2014, since then, we have had the pleasure to work closely together as Gucci has charted its successful path over these last eight years. Stay updated on the latest news with our carefully curated newsletters, Discover the latest news and more with instant updates, Alessandro Michele Is Reportedly Exiting Gucci. When I started the first collection, I was thinking not in terms of fashion but in terms of attitude, he adds, that sense of beauty which I tried to find for an old and beautiful and charming brand like Gucci., The garrulous and engagingly unprocessed Michele is still wreathed in wonderment at his new role. In the largest creative shake-up of a fashion brand since the Covid-19 pandemic, Gucci announced on Wednesday that Alessandro Michele, its creative director, was leaving the company. Career Two ensembles by Michele for Gucci on display during The Met 's exhibit Camp: Notes on Fashion In 1994, Alessandro Michele left Rome to work in Les Copains, an Italian knitwear firm based in Bologna. As seen during Alessandro Micheles SS23 Twinsburg show. To this extended family, to all the individuals who have looked after and supported it, I send my most sincere thanks, my biggest and most heartfelt embrace. To revisit this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories, To revisit this article, select My Account, thenView saved stories, Sign up to our newsletter for a truly global perspective on the fashion industry. (Gucci), Gucci is suffering from brand fatigue, Bernstein analyst Luca Solca wrote in a note to clients. Enter your email to receive editorial updates, special offers and breaking news alerts from Vogue Business. This, in all likelihood, can only be done with new creative energy and talent hence the sooner Alessandro goes, the better.. And it was during his tenure that the company launched the Vault, an online resale project for reworked treasures from the labels jet-set era heyday and an e-commerce emporium for on-the-rise designers that won his seal of approval, among them Collina Stradas Hillary Taymour, Bianca Saunders, and Rui Zhou. Kering itself was interested in acquiring Fords brand, and may welcome the return of a designer whose luxurious minimalism first propelled Gucci to fashion relevance in the 1990s. So I wanted to present an idea of something romantic, in dream timelike in a movie. He is also enjoying working with what he describes as the Pop symbols of the companyelements like the double-G logo and the companys trademark striped athletic ribbing. Speculation about his departure, which was earlier reported by Womens Wear Daily, prompted an initial boost to Kerings share price when markets opened on Wednesday, with analysts noting that a new designer could help to revive sales. I wasnt even on the list, Michele says, referring to the presumed roster of high-profile industry talents whose names had been bandied about for the coveted job. Stay tuned as we learn more about Alessandro Micheles potential departure from Gucci. Alessandro Michele, the creative director who turned Gucci into a hit brand with younger generations, is leaving the Italian label. As always, the show will go on. "There are times when paths part ways because of the . In short order, samples were made and fabrics sourced or created. You may have more than one ad-blocker installed. The former anchor seems to blame his ouster on conflicting principles, rather than a series of controversies. Franois-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of Guccis parent company, Kering, called Micheles tenure an outstanding moment in the history of the house, and did not specify any further reason for his departure. The first course of action might be to headhunt an established creative director with tried and tested credentials, either from within its own stable of brands or elsewhere. Nearly 7 years into his tenure, he had transformed the Gucci image with. The spring 2022 show took place on Hollywood Boulevard, with the Mann Chinese Theatre providing a cinematic backdrop. Sales missed estimates for the third quarter, rising 9 percent compared to a 22 percent jump at Vuitton-owner LVMH and 24 percent growth at Herms. Also, what will Harry Styles and Jared Leto wear now? In them is a line from the Italian philosopher Giorgio Agamben: Those who are truly contemporary are those who neither perfectly coincide with their time nor adapt to its demands. You may have more than one ad-blocker installed. As he told us, it was a day he expected would come. This afternoon Michele hosted a press conference in the shadow of one of Milans most impressive monuments from the past: the triumphal arch built by Napoleon to mark the start of the French Emperors connecting road to his seat of power in Paris. But unexpected and unsentimental change at the top has become something of a pattern at Kering. Support us by whitelisting our site. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. Softer, smoother, and shinier hair is just a spritz (or squirt) away. When he was taken to task for lifting from the Harlem couturier Dapper Dan, Gucci went into business with him. Alessandro Michele and Jared Leto twinning at the 2022 Met Gala. 2023 Cond Nast. Old things are interesting only to experts or people like me who keep relics in their wardrobe, and who collect you know, people tell me I need to declutter! If we only have this opportunity for a month or a year, I dont care.. The Gucci Twinsburg show in September 2022, which featured 68 pairs of identical twins. Hypebeast is a registered trademark of Hypebeast Hong Kong Ltd. Gain access to exclusive interviews with industry creatives, think pieces, trend forecasts, guides and more. The show notes from his first womens collection for autumn/winter 2015 are telling, in this regard. "You said after that first show you were worried they were gonna fire you," correspondent Sharyn Alfonsi said to Michele at that time, "Are you feeling a little more confident now? ENTER our popular soapie quiz and WIN R1 000 in cash! In January 2015,Guccis then-creative director Frida Giannini abruptly exited the company, and CEO Marco Bizzarri challenged Michele to design and present the housesAutumn/Winter menswear show in only five days. My mother says, You have to clean all this up!, Anyway, this idea has never been mainstream in fashionit was something for obsessional people. All rights reserved. I would like to thank him for his 20 years of commitment to Gucci and for his vision, devotion, and unconditional love for this unique house during his tenure as creative director.. All rights reserved. Shes a grown woman. Your sexuality, oftentimes, can be very much used against you.. The logic behind Micheles latest venture seems powerful. After almost eight years at the helm of Gucci, Alessandro Michele is leaving the brand. Copyright Blue Sky Publications Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Resale Revolution: Alessandro Michele Unlocks the Thinking Behind His Gucci Vault. 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